Island Hopping on the West Coast of Scotland

There’s a particular kind of holiday that involves very little planning and a lot of ferries. You turn up at a pier, drive onto a boat, and forty minutes later you’re somewhere else entirely — different landscape, different pace, sometimes a different accent. The west coast of Scotland is made for this.

The classic route starts at Oban, a busy little harbour town that serves as the gateway to the Inner Hebrides. From here, ferries run to Mull, Coll, Tiree and a handful of smaller islands. Mull is the biggest and most popular, with the colourful harbour of Tobermory at one end and the wild mountains of the Ross at the other. But it’s worth pushing further.

Coll, Tiree and the outer edge

Coll is small, flat and fringed with white-sand beaches that wouldn’t look out of place in the Caribbean — if the Caribbean had a average temperature of ten degrees. The island has one shop, one pub, and more seals than people. Tiree is even flatter, known for its wind (it hosts a windsurfing championship) and its machair, a flower-rich grassland that turns the whole island into a carpet of colour in summer.

Further north, the Small Isles — Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna — are reached from Mallaig. Each has its own character. Eigg is community-owned and powered by renewables. Rum is mountainous and owned by NatureScot. Canna is tiny and has a café in a barn. Muck is low-lying and green and has a population of about thirty.

How to plan an island-hopping trip

The practicalities matter more than the romance. Ferries on the west coast are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne, and in summer you should book ahead, especially if you’re taking a car. Some islands are best explored on foot or by bike, which saves the hassle of vehicle booking. Accommodation is limited — book early, and be prepared for simple rooms and shared bathrooms.

Weather is a factor. Ferries get cancelled. Plans change. The best approach is to build in slack, have a backup island in mind, and accept that the journey is part of the point. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a flat calm crossing with the hills of Rum or Skye rising out of the haze. If you’re not, you’ll get a story. Either way, you’ll come back with salt in your hair and a new favourite island.